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What the maang tikka, nath, chooda, kalire, sindoor and mangalsutra are, who gives or ties each one, and how Indian bridal jewellery changes by region.
Indian bridal jewellery is a set of pieces, each with its own place and meaning: the maang tikka on the forehead, the nath in the nose, bangles such as the Punjabi chooda on the wrists, and, for many Hindu brides, the mangalsutra necklace and sindoor in the hair parting, which the groom gives during the ceremony. Which pieces a bride wears depends heavily on her region, community and religion, so no two Indian bridal looks are exactly alike.
Common Indian bridal jewellery: Maang tikka, Hair parting, pendant on the forehead, Bride's family, Brides across North and South India; Nath, Nose, often with a chain to the ear or hair, Bride's family, Many regions, Hindu and Muslim; Chooda, Wrists, red and white bangles, Maternal uncle and aunt, Punjabi brides; Kalire, Hung from the chooda, Friends and relatives, Punjabi brides; Mangalsutra, Neck, The groom ties it, Hindu brides, especially in the South and West; Sindoor, Hair parting (a powder, not a jewel), The groom applies it, Hindu brides, especially in the North and East.
The maang tikka is a pendant that hangs from a chain along the hair parting so it sits in the middle of the forehead. It's one of the most widely worn bridal pieces in India, and it comes in many forms: a single drop, a wider forehead band, or a pairing with a side ornament. Hyderabadi Muslim brides, for example, wear a fan-shaped jhoomar or paasa at the side of the head as part of the khara dupatta bridal ensemble.
The nath is a bridal nose ring. Nose rings are associated with married women in South Asia among both Hindus and Muslims, in many different regional forms. Bengali women traditionally wore a septum ring (nathori) with a nostril nath as a sign of marriage, though the same source notes the practice is declining as many women prefer small studs. Bridal naths are often large hoops, sometimes with a chain that runs back to the ear or hair to hold the weight.
The chooda (chura)) is a set of bangles, traditionally red and white, given to the bride by her maternal uncle and aunt. Other communities have their own versions: Gujarati brides wear red and green, and Marathi brides wear green glass bangles. Historically a bride wore her chura for a full year; today many wear it for about 40 days.
The mangalsutra is a necklace, usually of black beads on a black or turmeric-yellow thread, that the groom ties around the bride's neck during the ceremony. She then wears it throughout the marriage. Its name and design change across India:
Sindoor is a red or orange-red powder that married Hindu women wear along the hair parting. It isn't jewellery, but it belongs in this list because it's applied during the wedding: in the sindoor daan, the groom puts it in the bride's parting for the first time, marking her as married. Many brides wear the maang tikka along the same parting, so the two are designed to work together.
Necklaces in layers: a choker at the throat and one or more longer necklaces, often gold, kundan or polki. Jhumkas and chandbalis: bell-shaped or crescent earrings, often heavy enough to need a support chain. Haath phool: a bracelet joined by chains to rings on the fingers. Kamarbandh: a waist belt worn over the sari or lehenga. Payal and bichiya: anklets and toe rings. In many Hindu communities toe rings mark a married woman.
Decide which traditions you're following first. A Punjabi-Tamil couple may want both a chooda and a thali. Our guide to Indian wedding traditions covers the ceremonies each piece belongs to. Plan the heirlooms. Many brides wear a mother's or grandmother's piece. Ask early, so it can be cleaned, restrung or resized. Think about weight. A heavy nath or earrings for a six-hour ceremony is tiring. Support chains and a lighter set for the reception help. Match the jewellery to each outfit. Many Indian weddings have several events and outfits; see why couples have multiple wedding outfits. Keep it safe. Assign one trusted relative to look after jewellery during changes, and never leave pieces in a shared room.
For many Hindu brides it's the mangalsutra (or thali), because the groom tying it is central to the ceremony. For Punjabi brides the chooda carries similar weight. It depends on the community.
Traditionally the bride's maternal uncle and aunt give her the chooda, often at a ceremony on the morning of the wedding.
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