Loading Forever Farrah…
The difference between a qun kwa, a xiuhe and a qipao, what the dragon and phoenix embroidery means, and when Chinese brides wear each outfit on the day.
Chinese brides usually wear red, and the three most common traditional outfits are the qun kwa, the xiuhe and the qipao. The qun kwa is a two-piece embroidered jacket and skirt from Cantonese tradition, decorated with dragons and phoenixes. The xiuhe is a similar two-piece with a side-fastening jacket and a flared skirt. The qipao is a fitted one-piece dress from 1920s Shanghai. Many brides wear one of these for the tea ceremony and a white gown for the rest of the day.
Chinese bridal outfits: Qun kwa (qungua), Jacket with a centre closure and a straight skirt, Guangdong, Qing dynasty, Dragons and phoenixes, dense gold and silver thread; Xiuhe (xiuhefu), Jacket overlapping to the right, A-line skirt, Chinese bridal tradition, popular in mainland China, Seasonal flowers and birds, as well as dragons and phoenixes; Qipao (cheongsam), Fitted one-piece dress, high collar, Shanghai, 1920s, Anything from simple brocade to full embroidery.
The qun kwa (Mandarin qungua, "skirt jacket") is also called the longfeng gua, the dragon-and-phoenix garment. It developed in Guangdong during the Qing dynasty and became the traditional bridal outfit for Cantonese women, and it's still popular in Hong Kong, Macau and across the Cantonese diaspora.
The xiuhe (or xiuhefu) is the qun kwa's close cousin. The easiest way to tell them apart: the xiuhe jacket overlaps and fastens on the right side, and the skirt is A-line, while the qun kwa jacket closes in the centre over a straighter skirt. Xiuhe embroidery often features seasonal flowers and birds. The xiuhe became popular in mainland China partly through film and television, and many couples now choose it as an alternative to the qun kwa.
The qipao, or cheongsam in Cantonese, evolved in Shanghai in the 1910s and 1920s from Manchu clothing of the Qing dynasty, and became fitted and body-hugging under Western influence from the 1920s and 1930s. It's not strictly a bridal garment, but a red qipao is a common wedding choice, and the same source notes that many Chinese brides wear both a white wedding dress and a cheongsam, the cheongsam typically during the tea ceremony.
Red is the traditional colour of luck and celebration in Chinese culture, which is why it dominates bridal clothing, decorations and envelopes. White has traditionally been associated with mourning, though white gowns are now common at Chinese weddings. For the wider story, see why do brides wear red.
Gold jewellery: gold bangles, necklaces and earrings given by the families are often worn with the qun kwa, sometimes many bangles at once. Red veil: a red veil (hong gaitou) is traditional with a red qipao or qun kwa, though few modern brides wear one. Hair ornaments: gold or red hairpins and flowers. Red shoes: embroidered red shoes to match.
Grooms often wear a suit, but for a traditional look many choose a Chinese jacket (such as a changshan or a matching xiuhe-style outfit) in red, black or navy with dragon embroidery.
A common pattern for Chinese weddings abroad:
Get the fit right. Qun kwa and qipao are tailored; allow time for fittings. Plan the weight. A heavily embroidered qun kwa is heavy and warm. If you'll wear it for hours, pick a lighter one for later. Coordinate the gold. If family give gold jewellery at the tea ceremony, leave space to wear it. Guests avoid red and white. See can you wear red to a wedding.
Both are two-piece red embroidered outfits. The qun kwa jacket fastens in the centre over a straight skirt and is Cantonese; the xiuhe jacket overlaps to the right over an A-line skirt.
Loading Forever Farrah…