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By Forever Farrah Published 2026-09-17.
The difference between a qun kwa, a xiuhe and a qipao, what the dragon and phoenix embroidery means, and when Chinese brides wear each outfit on the day.
Chinese brides usually wear red, and the three most common traditional outfits are the qun kwa, the xiuhe and the qipao. The qun kwa is a two-piece embroidered jacket and skirt from Cantonese tradition, decorated with dragons and phoenixes. The xiuhe is a similar two-piece with a side-fastening jacket and a flared skirt. The qipao is a fitted one-piece dress from 1920s Shanghai. Many brides wear one of these for the tea ceremony and a white gown for the rest of the day.
| Outfit | Shape | Origin | Typical embroidery |
|---|---|---|---|
| Qun kwa (qungua) | Jacket with a centre closure and a straight skirt | Guangdong, Qing dynasty | Dragons and phoenixes, dense gold and silver thread |
| Xiuhe (xiuhefu) | Jacket overlapping to the right, A-line skirt | Chinese bridal tradition, popular in mainland China | Seasonal flowers and birds, as well as dragons and phoenixes |
| Qipao (cheongsam) | Fitted one-piece dress, high collar | Shanghai, 1920s | Anything from simple brocade to full embroidery |
The qun kwa (Mandarin qungua, "skirt jacket") is also called the longfeng gua, the dragon-and-phoenix garment. It developed in Guangdong during the Qing dynasty and became the traditional bridal outfit for Cantonese women, and it's still popular in Hong Kong, Macau and across the Cantonese diaspora.
The embroidery is the point. The dragon and phoenix represent the couple, groom and bride, and the complementary balance between them. Other motifs include pomegranates (for children), peonies, lotus flowers, bats, goldfish and butterflies. The density of the gold and silver thread signals how formal and costly a qun kwa is.
Historically, mothers began sewing a qun kwa at a daughter's birth as part of her dowry. Older qun kwa often had a black jacket over a red skirt; later the black version was reserved for mothers, and all-red versions became the bridal norm from the 1960s. Heirloom qun kwa are often passed down.
The xiuhe (or xiuhefu) is the qun kwa's close cousin. The easiest way to tell them apart: the xiuhe jacket overlaps and fastens on the right side, and the skirt is A-line, while the qun kwa jacket closes in the centre over a straighter skirt. Xiuhe embroidery often features seasonal flowers and birds. The xiuhe became popular in mainland China partly through film and television, and many couples now choose it as an alternative to the qun kwa.
The qipao, or cheongsam in Cantonese, evolved in Shanghai in the 1910s and 1920s from Manchu clothing of the Qing dynasty, and became fitted and body-hugging under Western influence from the 1920s and 1930s. It's not strictly a bridal garment, but a red qipao is a common wedding choice, and the same source notes that many Chinese brides wear both a white wedding dress and a cheongsam, the cheongsam typically during the tea ceremony.
A qipao is lighter and easier to move in than a qun kwa, which makes it popular for the banquet and for toasting tables.
Red is the traditional colour of luck and celebration in Chinese culture, which is why it dominates bridal clothing, decorations and envelopes. White has traditionally been associated with mourning, though white gowns are now common at Chinese weddings. For the wider story, see why do brides wear red.
Grooms often wear a suit, but for a traditional look many choose a Chinese jacket (such as a changshan or a matching xiuhe-style outfit) in red, black or navy with dragon embroidery.
A common pattern for Chinese weddings abroad:
Customs differ between Cantonese, Hokkien, Teochew, northern Chinese and other communities, and between mainland China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia, so ask your families what they expect. Chinese wedding traditions covers the ceremonies in more detail.
If you're seating a big banquet, Forever Farrah's seating chart lets you arrange round tables and share them with guests.
Both are two-piece red embroidered outfits. The qun kwa jacket fastens in the centre over a straight skirt and is Cantonese; the xiuhe jacket overlaps to the right over an A-line skirt.
They represent the groom and the bride, and the balance between them. Together they're a wish for a harmonious marriage.
Yes. White gowns are common at Chinese weddings today, often worn for the ceremony with a red qun kwa or qipao for the tea ceremony.
Often for the tea ceremony or the banquet, especially for toasting tables, because it's lighter than a qun kwa.
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