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What Korean brides wear for the pyebaek, how the hwarot and wonsam differ, and why the bride's mother wears pink and the groom's mother wears blue hanbok.
At a Korean wedding, the bride usually wears a Western gown for the main ceremony and changes into hanbok for the pyebaek, the family ceremony afterwards. For the pyebaek she wears a ceremonial robe over her hanbok, either a red hwarot or a green wonsam, with a jokduri crown. The mothers wear hanbok in matching colour families: the bride's mother in shades of red or pink, the groom's mother in shades of blue, a pairing based on yin and yang.
Korean bridal robes compared: Hwarot, Red outside, blue lining, Royal ceremonial robe, later worn by commoner brides, Jokduri or hwagwan crown, long ribbon (daenggi); Wonsam, Usually green for brides, Court robe of queens and noblewomen, Jokduri crown.
The hwarot was a ceremonial robe for royal women in the Goryeo and Joseon eras, and was later adopted by ordinary brides for weddings. It's typically red outside and blue inside, a pairing traditionally read as the yin and yang of husband and wife. The sleeves carry stripes of red, blue and yellow with white cuffs, and the robe is embroidered with flowers, birds, pairs of animals and characters wishing the couple wealth, luck and children.
The wonsam was a ceremonial topcoat worn by queens, royalty and high-ranking court women in the Joseon dynasty (1392 to 1910). Because a hwarot was so expensive, commoner brides often wore a wonsam instead. It has an open front and long sleeves with coloured stripes and white cuffs, and bridal versions are usually green. The Asian Art Museum also holds a bridal wonsam.
With either robe, the bride traditionally wears:
One of the most visible traditions today is the mothers' colours. According to Korea.net, the Korean government's official site, the groom's mother wears hanbok in shades of blue and the bride's mother in shades of red, following yin-yang harmony. In practice that means:
For the pyebaek, the groom traditionally wears a gwanbok-style official's robe with a winged hat, the dress of a Joseon official, or a modern men's hanbok. For the main ceremony he usually wears a suit or tuxedo.
The pyebaek is a traditional ceremony in which the couple bow to the groom's family, offer them dates and chestnuts, and receive blessings. It used to be for the groom's family only, but many couples now include both. Korea.net notes that pyebaek is now optional, based on the couple's values. Most modern weddings happen in wedding halls on a tight schedule, so the pyebaek often takes place in a separate room while guests eat. See Korean wedding traditions for the full order of the day.
Most couples rent pyebaek robes rather than buy them, often through the wedding hall. Mothers' hanbok are more often made to measure, because they're worn again for family events. Prices vary by fabric, city and whether the hanbok is tailored, so compare what each shop includes.
Ask both mothers early. A tailored hanbok takes time, and the two should coordinate shades. Decide who attends the pyebaek. It's intimate, so many couples invite only close family. Guests shouldn't copy the mothers. Guests can wear hanbok, but avoid matching the mothers' pink and blue. Mixing cultures? Many couples combine a Korean pyebaek with another tradition's ceremony. See how to plan a multicultural wedding.
Both are ceremonial robes worn over hanbok. The hwarot is red with a blue lining and was a royal robe; the wonsam, usually green for brides, was a court robe that commoner brides wore because a hwarot cost so much.
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