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What black tie, black tie optional, white tie, formal and cocktail attire mean on a wedding invitation, for men and women, with a quick table to compare.
Black tie on a wedding invitation means formal evening wear. For men that's a tuxedo (a dinner jacket) with a bow tie; for women, a floor-length evening gown, or a very dressy cocktail dress or evening separates. It's the most common formal dress code at weddings and usually signals an evening event. "Black tie optional" is a step down: a tuxedo is welcome, but a dark suit and tie is fine too.
Wedding dress codes compared: White tie, Black tailcoat, white bow tie, white waistcoat, wing-collar shirt, Full-length evening gown, The most formal; Black tie, Tuxedo, bow tie, formal shirt, black dress shoes, Floor-length gown, or a very dressy cocktail dress or evening separates, Formal; Black tie optional, Tuxedo, or a dark suit with a tie, Evening gown, cocktail dress or dressy separates, Formal, with flexibility; Formal, Dark suit and tie; a tuxedo if you like, Long dress or dressy cocktail dress, Formal, less strict than black tie; Cocktail, Suit and tie, Cocktail dress or dressy separates, Smart, not formal.
The Emily Post Institute calls black tie the most common formal dress code for weddings, formal dinners and similar events.
This means the couple would love guests in black tie but won't mind if you're not. Emily Post says men can wear a tuxedo or a dark suit with a white dress shirt and a conservative tie, and women can choose an evening gown, a shorter cocktail dress or dressy separates. If you're unsure, lean formal: you'll rarely feel out of place slightly overdressed.
A variation you'll sometimes see. Emily Post describes it as a black tie foundation with room for creativity and flair: a textured or coloured jacket, an unusual bow tie, a bold gown or statement accessories. It should still read as evening wear.
White tie is the most formal Western dress code and is rare at weddings. Men traditionally wear a black tailcoat with matching trousers, a white wing-collar shirt, a white waistcoat and a white bow tie. Women wear a full-length evening gown. If an invitation says white tie, take it literally; it isn't interchangeable with black tie.
"Formal" usually sits just below black tie. A dark suit and tie is standard for men, and a tuxedo is welcome. Women can wear a long dress or a dressy cocktail dress. It gives the same polished impression as black tie without requiring a tuxedo.
Cocktail attire is smart but not formal. For women that's a cocktail dress or dressy separates; for men, a suit and tie, and a lighter-coloured suit is fine at a daytime wedding. If you're choosing a colour, see can you wear red to a wedding?
Plenty of invitations don't mention dress at all. In that case, use the clues:
Dress codes describe how formal to be, not everything about what to wear. At some religious ceremonies you may also need to cover your shoulders, knees or head, and at some cultural weddings certain colours are best avoided. The Jewish wedding guide covers modest dress and the kippah.
Strictly, black tie means a tuxedo. If you can't get one, a very dark, well-fitted suit with a white shirt and a dark tie is the closest option, but renting a tuxedo is better. For "black tie optional", a dark suit is fine.
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