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The difference between the white shiromuku and colourful iro-uchikake, what the wataboshi and tsunokakushi mean, and how Japanese brides wear their hair.
A Japanese bride at a traditional Shinto wedding usually wears one of three kimono: the all-white shiromuku, the colourful iro-uchikake, or the black patterned kurobiki furisode. With the white shiromuku she covers her hair with either a large white hood called a wataboshi or a white band called a tsunokakushi. Many brides wear the shiromuku for the ceremony and change into a colourful kimono or a Western gown for the reception.
Japanese bridal kimono compared: Shiromuku, Entirely white, inside and out, often with woven white patterns, The ceremony; Iro-uchikake, Richly coloured outer robe, often red or gold with cranes, flowers or pine, The ceremony or the reception; Kurobiki furisode, Black, long-sleeved, with colourful patterns, The ceremony or reception.
The shiromuku is the most formal bridal kimono. Every layer is white: the outer robe, the kimono beneath, the obi sash and the accessories. White has long been read as purity and as a fresh start, which is why the shiromuku is the classic choice for the ceremony itself.
The iro-uchikake is the same garment in colour. Red is traditional, and designs are dense with auspicious motifs: cranes (long life), pine, plum blossom, and fans that open outwards like a growing future. Some brides wear it for the ceremony; many change into it afterwards.
With a shiromuku, the bride chooses one of two head coverings:
The groom's traditional outfit is a black crested haori jacket over a kimono, with striped hakama trousers. The crests are the family crest, which is why this outfit is called montsuki (crested). He usually keeps it on through the ceremony, even when the bride changes.
Changing outfits at the reception is a long-standing part of Japanese weddings. A typical pattern:
Bridal kimono are expensive, heavy and worn for a few hours, so many brides in Japan rent them, often as a package with dressing, hair and a wig. Prices vary widely by fabric and region, so compare what's included (dressing, wig, accessories, photos) rather than the headline price. Outside Japan, a few specialist rental houses ship to overseas couples; allow time for fittings and shipping, and book a dresser who has worked with uchikake before.
Guests don't wear white or anything that competes with the bride. Our guide to Japanese wedding etiquette for guests covers dress, gifts and what to expect.
Book the dresser and wig stylist early. Specialist kitsuke artists are in short supply outside Japan. Build the changes into the timeline. Each kimono change can take a good chunk of time; plan speeches or a slideshow for guests while you change. Practise walking. An uchikake trails, and the sandals (zori) are low; take small steps. Mixing cultures? Many couples wear a kimono for one part and a gown or another tradition's outfit for the other. See wedding dresses around the world.
The shiromuku, meaning "pure white". Every layer, including the outer robe, is white.
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